I couldn’t quite coordinate the dates of our reciprocal home exchanges, so I used some points to make a short stop in the heart of Province, Avignon!  

It turned out to make a wonderful weekend full of history and culture instead of just frolicking on the beach. The fun started as we made our drive from Montpellier, when we stopped half way in the extremely well-preserved Roman outpost of Nîmes. Main attractions include the amphitheater, still used for concerts and bullfights, and the 2000-year old white limestone temple, Maison Carrée. Since we didn’t pay entry, these sites took less than 30 minutes to view, and we wandered the old town until we found one of my favorite attractions in every city, the large covered market. 

We decided to buy a bunch of hot picnic food to take to the park, and, eyes bigger than stomachs, ended up with enough for a convenient dinner that evening. The park was a worthy stop, built around a series of canals and fountains. At the top of its highest point, we climbed a tower that stood for a few centuries before the Romans showed up. 

Arriving in Avignon, we had to park in a free lot outside the medieval center, where we stayed in a very old building with a modern interior and two furry little roommates. Aside from carrying luggage, I appreciated the nearly-car-free streets and extreme convenience of this central location. We walked out the door Saturday morning to the weekly market, where we found treats for breakfast and went on to all the must-see attractions of this famous town. First, a view from the highest point, the Roche de Doms. 

We couldn’t miss the chance for a dance Sur Le Pont d’Avignon - a bridge that fell into disrepair and now goes nowhere. Afterward, we walked to a more functional bridge to cross over to the large island in the middle of the Rhône. We ate at a very casual restaurant with views back toward the impressive skyline. 

That view is dominated by the Palais des Papes, where 14th century popes lived after their period of homeless itinerancy in the 14th Century. It was their first lavish home, but today couldn’t look more different than the Vatican. The inside is pretty bare. It is the sheer scale of this gothic edifice that makes an impression. 

That night we cooked dinner together and then went out to sit on the terrace at a beer bar to watch the world go by, the quintessential French experience we usually miss in favor of our laptops. Sunday night, we got to stay out as well. We spent the entire day at another famous bridge and incredible Roman construction, the Pont du Gard aqueduct. During the day we got to swim and hike. At night, it became the canvas for a light show. I enjoyed, but didn’t understand the psychedelic fever dream retelling of local history.

It was a fun way to cap off this city break weekend before heading off to our final French home exchange