Xoxo graveyard is situated about 15 minutes from the centre of Oaxaca, though due to the throngs of people on the streets and the traffic chaos it took us well over an hour and a half on the bus to get here, Bit of a bummer but ho hum. Nothing was going to dampen the enjoyment of the moment.

A few of the wet lettuces I was travelling with, didn't even come out "too morbid" they said. FFS! why come to Mexico at this time of year then?

Hello, it was clearly advertised that the tour would encompass the festival of Los Dias de Muerte.

I am not a man of violence but sometimes I have this urge to give people a slap.

This is a joyous occasion but with rules.

  • No flash photography, good.
  • No tramping on the graves, no problem
  • Do not decline offered tequilla, thats a yes then
  • Engage with the families, of course.
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November 2 is the actual Dia de los Muertos when families honour adults whom they have lost. It is believed that on these days, the souls of the deceased return to earth to be with their families and loved ones.

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Leading up to the night many families repaint and decorate the graves so that when the deceased return will be happy to see how much they are loved and missed, it is said the more flowers and grander the decoration the more the dead feel loved and missed.

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If not fully dressed in festival clothes , face painting is an option enjoyed by many

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Families gather, fully immersed in the occasion, they sit all night they eat, they drink, they reminisce, they talk of their loved ones they are happy, the sounds of distant mariachi bands fill the night air. The tequila is strong, raw and biting on the back of one's throat, try not to cough and splutter.
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That was a magical ethereal and wondrous experience.

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I snapped away
I was careful
I imbibed
I chatted

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And I got my face painted!

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