Masala Adventures 009 - Bhopal's Pitstop Chronicles

Spices and Shadows

After our adventure through Khajaraho, Bhopal loomed on our horizon, a city in the heart of India harbouring tigers and jungle labyrinths. Scanning the prospects of places to explore, we had reservations at a service apartment. Bhopal, it seemed, held few secrets for our fleeting visit, merely a brief pause before our onward journey.

As night descended upon our arrival, our primary mission lay in locating the service apartment we had hastily booked. The custodian, a Hindi-speaking sentinel, had entrusted the key to a fellow guard. What captured my immediate attention, however, was the guard's weapon. Held clumsily, it signaled his unfamiliarity with its use. The apartment complex itself, a labyrinthine structure, appeared designed to house a multitude. Yet, it bore the remnants of avian visitors, a cautionary reminder to watch one's step. (bird drops and dog poop)

Fatigue, like a relentless shadow, descended upon us, compelling a brief respite for the journey ahead of us. The apartment, secured via makemytrip, proved a refuge of surprises. I wondered who the host was, as the place seemed to look like the decor had a very feminine touch. Also clean. Although I don't think that anyone booking it who is unskilled in speaking hindi would have had a great experience. 

With the dawn came plans for exploration, a resolve to uncover Bhopal's essence. Our host's promise of an early check-in, however, materialized hours later, at the eleventh hour. When we finally ventured out, we boarded an electric Ricksha bound for Lake View Road's Café Coffee Day. There, a brief reunion over the phone with a long-lost friend, Archana Akil Kumar, a renowned model, actress, basketball player kindled a spark of connection, aligning our trip close to her.

Amadeus, the Swiss Science Center's polymath, harbored a different passion. Amidst discussions on didactics, pedagogy, and workshops on solar energy, he yearned to immerse himself in the realm of like-minded science enthusiasts at Bhopal's Science Center.

Left to my own devices and gadgets, I relished an unfamiliar freedom. The only shackles were those of my backpack. Random strangers became subjects of my street photography, their portraits echoing Bhopal's unspoken tales.

Yet, what struck me most profoundly were the city's vivid wall paintings. They conveyed creativity, a vibe of open-mindedness and reverence for art and culture. In contrast, Switzerland's graffiti, a stifled yearning for expression in a restrictive world, loomed dim in my memory.

Rejoining Amadeus at the Science Center, I witnessed his animated exchange with Mr. Sharma, an Isha Foundation Ashram alumnus who had immersed himself in the yogic path for over a year. Conversations among fellow scientists, engaged in unraveling the intricacies of science teaching and comprehensively explaining exhibits, became a symphony of intellectual exploration.

Post our tête-à-tête with the Science Center's director, Mr. Saket Singh, we embarked on a city stroll. Water chestnuts refreshed our taste buds, while a leisurely lakeside promenade gave it a twist of a imaginable and youthful Bhopal vibe. An Indian culinary experience waited around the corner followed by a culminating rendezvous with Chai Walla Mr. Sharma. We had a spicy Black Tea with a dash of Lemon. Some fermented Camellia sinensis. Amidst the heady aroma of spices and tea, we tasted the city's essence at Lake View Road.

Yet, we were acutely aware of our impending departure. We needed to collect our belongings, return the key, and board the Rajdhani Express train to Nasik.

As we arrived at the train station, a stark revelation awaited us: our reservation had been canceled.

Faced with this unforeseen predicament, our path forward appeared shrouded in uncertainty. Buses departed the next day, flights were prohibitively expensive, and all other trains stood fully booked.

In our hour of desperation, danger lurked in the shadows. A chance encounter with a suspicious character, intent on luring us into a murky proposition, underscored India's dubious duality.

With limited options, I turned to technology, summoning an Uber driver located just minutes away. And thus began a road trip from Bhopal to Nasik, an exhilarating journey through breathtaking landscapes. To keep our vigilant driver awake, I played funk, hip-hop classics, and curated music from my cherished vinyl collection. My rare musical selections, absent from YouTube, enhanced their value.

Our chauffeur, Laxmi, proved an unassuming yet dependable companion, a safe pair of hands navigating the winding roads. His reliability and affability earned him a well-deserved place in this chronicle, along with his contact details. Uber's compensation left me astounded, a stark contrast to my experiences driving in India over several years. Laxmi was a truly exceptional driver, a paragon of trustworthiness.

• India - Masala Adventures 007
• India - Masala Adventures 006
• India - Masala Adventures 005
• India - Masala Adventures 004
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• India - Masala Adventures 002
• India - Masala Adventures 001

VanishingDong Chang 东厂aka Rane

"In types of situations when looking deep into a soul through it's windows, you can recognise the intentions of the ones with ulterior motives. One one side it's you intuition that can reveal it and on the other a rhetorical move that will uncover their dubious intention. They will always have something gullible. "- @yangyangje

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