We had a little gap between two home exchanges, so got the chance for a short stay in ‘The Border City’ of Carlisle. It has a fascinating and tumultuous history as a military stronghold from Roman times through the Middle Ages and Anglo-Scottish wars. 

Carlisle Castle changed hands between English and Scots many times, was attacked by William Wallace and imprisoned Mary Queen of Scots. We didn’t go in, but couldn’t miss it from the outside. The castle, citadel (currently surrounded by road works), and cathedral dominate the center of town. 

During its years of conflict this region was dominated by ‘Reiver’ families who stole cattle, pillaged, blackmailed and were generally so lawless that no one dared visit. They were enough of a menace that the archbishop wrote ‘the world’s longest curse’ against these men and made every bishop read it out. It is inscribed on a stone, improbably displayed in a pedestrian underpass, alongside the names of Border Reivers who were tried and executed at that spot.

First section of obvious wall
First section of obvious wall
Temple of Mithras
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Temple of Mithras
Northumberland and distant Scotland
Northumberland and distant Scotland

The history that drew me was a bit older, as the original border this settlement marked was that of the Roman Empire, later marked by Hadrian’s Wall. We parked at one town and took a bus out about 14 Roman miles (12 modern miles) along the wall and walked back. The first sight was the Temple of Mithras. After a stretch of sheep pasture, we reached the first recognizable portions of the wall. It is dotted with foundations of a few keeps as well as some forts and an amazing military-civilian settlement. Not to mention the scenery: rolling English countryside including the Pennines to the south, Northumberland National Park to the north.

Shoes preserved by the region’s unique mud
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This walk was long enough so that we didn’t have time to stop at the paid sights. We returned to the settlement, called Vindolanda, the next day. Miserably cold, but well worth a visit, and luckily along with the ruins, they did have exhibits indoors. It is an active archeological site where they are still finding jewelry, coins, and wood products from all over the Roman Empire. The most famous discovery are writing tablets, featuring delightfully quotidian messages amounting to small talk and shopping lists.  

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The weekdays were a little bit warmer, and we took a couple drives west to the coast. Maryport above was another Roman settlement town with a lovely promenade. The Solway Coast below was a more wild nature reserve with views across the bay to Scotland.

Same day different hat
Same day different hat

Then it was time to head south again, to our next stop in yet another National Park - Yorkshire Dales.