Church of St. Mary - S:ta Maria kyrka stained-glass window
Modern stained-glass in Helsingborg's Church of St. Mary. Note the Sphinx and Eiffel Tower near the bottom.

Sweden's Gothic Fourth City

For our sins, our first stop was church. Sta. Maria Kyrka is not the cathedral I was expecting in such a large city, but a relatively small church in Danish Gothic style. It dates from the 1300s but took a thousand years to finish. The contents span its entire history from medieval graves, to the delicately carved pulpit from 1615, to the imposing organ built in 1959, to the modern stained-glass windows designed by noted artists.

Church of St. Mary - S:ta Maria kyrka interior
The interior of the Church of St. Mary including a medieval grave and the Renaissance pulpit

The Organ in Church of St. Mary in Helsingborg
The Marcussen Organ at the St. Mary Church, built in 1959

All that religion made us thirsty for a beer. We found a lovely walking street with plenty of options. Before deciding on a cafe, we came across a castle. A more modern castle-like construction formed a decorative gateway to the real medieval fortress beyond. Past the fountains, terraces, and arches was the brutally simple Kärnan tower.

Kärnan tower in Helsingborg
This fairy tale fortress, in the center of Helsingborg leading to the famous medieval Kärnan tower, visible in the background

Helsingborg high street
Helsingborg's pedestrian high street enticed us to see what lay just further along

Returning to the seafront, we were transfixed by the sight of the car ferry opening it's bow door, as it entered the harbor at a surprising rate of speed. I later learned that there are over 70 car ferry departures from this port every day. The "HH route" connects Helsingborg to its Danish sister city of Helsingør, Shakespeare's Elsinore, home of Hamlet's castle. The double-ended ferries never have to turn around, theoretically having a Swedish end and a Danish end.

Helsingborg harbor causeway

Car ferry
A double-ended Scandlines car ferry approaches the car port with its bow door already open.

Public restroom
My friend Alan approaches the prettiest public toilet I've ever seen. A button causes the mirrored door to open

Helsingborg City Hall
The Radhuset (Helsingborg City Hall)

There was more to see in what was one of Sweden's oldest cities, but I had a train to catch. My friends and I said our farewells and they dropped me at the station. I bought a ticket and descended to the platform. In less than an hour and half, I would be arriving in Copenhagen.


Did you see my other recent Scandinavian travel posts?

Sweden

Norway & Svalbard

All of the content in my posts is original and the photos are Copyright © Nick Kraft.

I was traveling light. These images were taken with a small Samsung point-and-shoot camera or a smartphone!

Thank you!

Nick