You've come down from the mountains, out of the Klis fortress, beatunt the amphitheater and survived the drive through an industrial area. Now comes Split, Croatia's second largest city and an excellent place to experience the real life of Dalmatia. This is where the cruise ships land and where the tourist crowds congregate. It's the Mekka of Dalmatia.
But today's Split still offers a perfect balance between tradition and modernity. On the one hand, there is a hustle and bustle that can scare you. Sweating and wondering crowds in the old town, the narrow streets around Diocletian's Palace, crowded pubs, ice cream parlors without end, fast food restaurants and a wild wedding party that suddenly comes from behind and rushing everyone, smiling.
The true diamond
But Split also has beautiful beaches, lots of culture, street musicians, and streets that are so parked up that there's no turning back if you get lost with your car. The diamond in the city's crown is undoubtedly the Palace of Diocletian, an ancient complex of buildings that served as the retirement residence for the Roman emperor Diocletian. Its size alone is impressive, because Diocletian was not content with a house. He built his own city.
More than 200 buildings and the extraordinary harbor location are part of the ensemble of houses that stand so close to each other that it is almost impossible to get through. During the emperor's lifetime, however, the palace served not only as the ruler's residence, but also as accommodation for all of his servants.
The original building, divided into south and north, was easily suitable as accommodation for the staff without them getting in each other's way. Although the palace lies almost intact at your feet, the ruling emperors have added a personal touch over the years. It is not for nothing that the city center of Split, including Diocletian's Palace, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979.
It's old, but is it stolen?
By then, the palace was already 1,500 years old, because is was built in the fourth century. It took ten years to build, the white stones came from the nearby island of Brac, but Diocletian spared no expense or effort in having marble from Italy and Greece, as well as columns and sphinxes from Egypt, delivered to Split. Did he also help himself in nearby Solin? At the amphitheater of the former inhabitants? It is not known, but on the other hand, he would have been stupid not to have done so.
Entrance to the Holy of Holies today is granted by four old gates: the Golden Gate in the north, the Bronze Gate in the south, the Silver Gate in the east and the Iron Gate in the west. In front of them stand real legionaries, at least that's how they look. The Bronze Gate once opened directly from the water into the first floors of the palace, so that goods procured by sea could be unloaded directly. This former merchants' entrance is now - coming from the beach - the main entrance to the palace. Behind it, a market full of knitwear, tourist novelties and cheap goods from China is waiting.
An open-air museum
All this resembles an open-air museum, because here the exciting sights line up. No wonder, because the history of the city goes back even 300 years further than to Emperor Diocletian. Most of the city has been preserved from the great days of Diocletian: Among the highlights of any visit is the peristyle, the central courtyard of the palace. The Cathedral of St. Domnius was originally built as a mausoleum for Emperor Diocletian, and it still includes a forecourt that leads to the inner courtyard of the palace.
When evening falls, the turbulent square turns into a huge pub. The stairs around are the benches, waiters come around and serve. On the steps in front of the pub entrance there is a musician singing the most beautiful evergreens by Neil Young, Bob Dylan and Michael Jackson. It doesn't take long and the whole open place has been conquered by dancing couples.
The impressive walls, towers and gates of the palace look completely different at night. The remains of the ancient baths and temples shimmer mysteriously in the spotlight. It has become quieter, the hustle and bustle of the day gives way to a great serenity. Glasses clink, people sing. One could do a lot more now, because besides the breathtaking beauty of history, Split is also a center for culture and entertainment. The city has numerous theaters, cinemas, bars, cafes, nightclubs and a lively music scene.
Taste the spirit of Dalmatia
But why leave when it's at its best? Why not just stay and enjoy? Right next door there are countless restaurants where you can taste the excellent local cuisine, known for its fresh seafood and local specialties such as olive oil, cheese and wine.
Yes, Split is simply a city that has something to offer for everyone; history buffs, culture buffs, hikers who want to relax, or sun lovers who are sick of the beach, or fans of the series "Game of Thrones", which was filmed here. Split plays the role of the city of Meereen. This city inspires everyone, because its unique blend of ancient history and modern culture makes it an unforgettable experience.
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