Come along on a mesmerizing journey through the streets of Santiago Atitlán, a Maya town nestled in the heart of Guatemala on the shores of Lake Atitlan. While Santiago Atitlán may not receive as much attention as other towns around the lake, it offers an unparalleled authentic experience and has an unique attraction: Maximón, the "evil saint".
On our visit, we felt like travelling back in time. We have prepared a comprehensive guide that will transform your day trip to into an extraordinary journey.
How to get to Santiago Atitlán
If you want to visit Santiago Atitlán for a day trip, chances are that you are already staying at Lake Atitlan. Public boats (lanchas) to Santiago Atitlán depart from both San Pedro and Panajachel and cost GTQ 25.
But be mindful - in San Pedro, the boats heading for Santiago depart from a different pier (Google Maps) than those bound for Panajachel.
Upon arrival at the port of Santiago Atitlán, you'll find yourself greeted by eager guides and tuk-tuk drivers offering their services. While these can certainly be helpful, we found that exploring Santiago on our own was not only possible but also incredibly rewarding! However, if you're keen on visiting Maximón's house (more on this intriguing figure later), hiring a guide might come in handy.
What to do in Santiago Atitlán
Stepping foot into Santiago Atitlán feels like traveling back in time. More than other villages around Lake Atitlan which are popular tourist destinations, Santiago retains its rustic charm and authenticity. This feeling of nostalgia was amplified during our visit as the entire town had been experiencing an electricity outage for several days. As we got to the pier, we watched many locals gathering water from the lake - due to the lack of electricity, there was no running water.
Shop at the local market
The first stop on our self-guided tour? The local market! Nestled both inside and outside a building, it offers an array of goods that are sure to catch your eye. And with candles illuminating every corner due to the power outage, shopping here felt almost romantic to us – a stark contrast to how locals view them as necessities rather than novelties.
While the main market is in the market hall, there are also many vendors around the building and the parque central.
Soak in the Colonial Charm of Iglesia Católica Santiago Apóstol
Not far from the parque central, one of the first sights that will catch your eye is the local church Iglesia Católica Santiago Apóstol. For some reason, a Spanish flag is waving from the tower of this colonial building.
Visit the Colorful Cementary
Do cemeteries give you chills? Well, prepare yourself for an entirely different cemetery experience here in Guatemala! Just a short walk uphill from town lies a colorful cemetery (Google Maps) that will leave you awe-struck rather than creeped out.
As you approach this unique resting place, vibrant hues greet your eyes at every turn. Brightly painted tombs adorned with intricate designs create an atmosphere that celebrates life rather than mourns death. It's like stepping into an open-air gallery filled with artistic expressions honoring departed loved ones.
Take your time strolling through this enchanting cemetery as each tomb tells its own story. The vibrant colors reflect the personalities and passions of those laid to rest, creating a joyful celebration of their lives.
Enjoy Captivating Views from Mirador del Valle
No trip to Santiago Atitlán would be complete without a visit to Mirador Del Valle, a breathtaking viewpoint that offers panoramic vistas of the town and the stunning Lake Atitlán. Located just before the entrance to the colorful cemetery, this scenic spot is worth every step uphill.
As you reach the viewpoint, prepare to have your breath taken away by the sweeping views that unfold before your eyes. The shimmering waters of Lake Atitlán stretch out as far as the eye can see, framed by majestic Volcán San Pedro and lush greenery. It's a picture-perfect postcard come to life.
Witness the "Maya Laundry" in Lake Atitlán
One unique aspect of life in Santiago Atitlán is witnessing what locals affectionately call "Maya Laundry." As you gaze out towards Lake Atitlán from Mirador Del Valle, keep an eye on its shores—you might catch sight of local Mayan women engaged in their traditional practice of washing clothes by hand.
It's fascinating to observe these skilled women gracefully scrubbing garments against rocks while chatting amongst themselves. Their vibrant traditional clothing adds splashes of color against the backdrop of nature's own palette.
Pray to Maximón
Probably the most unique thing to do in Santiago Atitlán is visiting Maximón. This enigmatic entity is not your typical Catholic Saint. Instead, he's revered for material gain and revenge, often depicted as a drinker, smoker, womanizer, and trickster. Locals and visitors alike come to pay their respects and pray for health, some even offering cigarettes and bottles of potent moonshine, which are consumed by the "priests" on behalf of Maximón.
Maximón moves to a different private house each year making its location somewhat elusive. While you might get lucky finding Maximón’s current location on OpenstreetMap (e.g. Organic Maps app), chances are high that you'll need assistance from either a guide or taxi driver. We managed to find one who showed us where Maximón currently resides for GTQ 30 – quite a bargain considering his initial asking price was GTQ 150!
Once inside Maximón's dwelling, you'll be asked to pay an entrance fee of GTQ 5 per person. If you wish to capture this unique experience on camera, remember that there’s an additional charge of GTQ 10.
Maximón's origins are shrouded in mystery. Some believe he was created during the Spanish conquest of the Maya, with tales ranging from a Franciscan friar who harassed local women to a Mayan elder who rebelled against the Spanish. Over time, Spanish missionaries attempted to merge the Mayan deity with Saint Simon, inadvertently creating a sinner-saint hybrid.
Even the current form of Maximón is controversial: There are claims that the effigy tourists see is not the original but a replica, moved annually to different houses to distribute tourist dollars among the community. However, many locals refute this, asserting that the effigy is indeed the genuine Maximón. Real or not - paying a visit to Maximón is a fascinating experience and a must-do on any trip to Santiago Atitlán.
Explore the Maya Ruins of Chuitinamit
Despite our best efforts to explore every nook and cranny of Santiago Atitlán, there were still places left unvisited. One such place was Maya Ruins Chuitinamit - an archaeological site that promises an intriguing peek into Guatemala’s ancient past, located just a short boat ride from Santiago Atitlán.
While we regret not being able to visit due to time constraints, we highly recommend adding this fascinating site to your itinerary if time allows. Who knows what stories these ruins hold?
Local Delicacies and Health Precautions
No travel experience is complete without sampling local delicacies, and Santiago Atitlán is no exception. As we returned to the main square, the aroma of Chicharon (fried chicken skin) wafting through the air was irresistible. But here's a word to the wise: not all that glitters is gold! The Chicharon in Guatemala can be a bit tricky as it's often fried in old fat. Unfortunately for us, this resulted in some unpleasant stomach issues that lasted a few days. Lucky enough, we did not get really sick - maybe our donation to Maximón had worked?
While our experience was far from ideal, it could have been much worse! Case in point: during my travels across Latin America, I once fell seriously ill after eating at local markets in Bolivia. A trip to the hospital revealed I had contracted Salmonella - definitely not something you want while traveling! I got excellent treatment at a private clinic in La Paz, but the bill for my short stay came in at several thousand dollars. I was so glad that I had a travel health insurance that fully covered the treatment - without it, I would have had to end my trip, since the treatment would have used up my travel funds.
So here's an important tip: always prioritize your health when traveling! Whether it’s avoiding potentially risky food or investing in good travel health insurance like SafetyWing (which costs just over $1 per day), taking these precautions can save you from unexpected troubles down the line. When you get sick, you don't want to rely on Maximón's mercy alone!
Final Advice Before Visiting Santiago Atitlán, Guatemala
From the popping colors of the cemetery to the mysterious vibes of Maximón, Santiago Atitlán is a hidden gem on Lake Atitlan. And hey, while the local snacks might call out to your foodie soul, maybe think twice before diving in. Trust us; a tummy ache is not the souvenir you want. Always be cautious about what you eat and consider investing in travel health insurance like SafetyWing for peace of mind.
Thinking of extending your Lake Atitlán adventure? Why not hop over to Santa Catarina Palopó & San Antonio Palopó next? We've got a whole other post on that, so check it out here: