Songkoks and the Art of Surviving Time

Walking the streets of George Town is not difficult to find men wearing a tunic and a characteristic oval hat. Generally made of black velvet, this hat is easily seen in Penang, especially on the outskirts of Nagore Durgha Sheriff, a small traditional mosque located near Little India. The contrast of the people in this part of the city is incredible! Indians, Muslims, Chinese, and world tourists mingle in this area near Chulia Street and King Street.

Besides the mosque, a small store is well known in the neighborhood. This is the traditional Songkoks shop of Mr. Haja Mohideen Mohamed Shariff. Songoks (I did not know either!) are those oval hats used by Muslims. Known for his extremely careful craftwork, Mr. Haja is a shy, calm man with very lively eyes. He is now one of the few men in the world who sews this type of hat manually. Mr. Haja has been doing his songoks since he was 12 years old and has learned his trade with his father.

Behind an old Singer sewing machine, I meet his son-in-law who helps in the sewing and sale of hats, while Mr. Haja enjoys a mug of tea beside him. The store opens every day and it is not difficult to find Mr. Haja behind your sewing machine. By day, he even sews up to 10 songoks. In times of Ramadan, sales grow, so Haja must be prepared for the demand!

According to Mr. Haja himself, his songkoks are special, which justifies the highest price. In addition to the measurements and sewing that are done carefully, every part of the hat is embroidered by hand. According to Mr. Haja their songkoks last longer and are more beautiful. I listen to him, smile and absolutely agree!

Hats are always made of mostly black velvet. There is no rule for colors, however, green and brown songkoks, for example, can only be used by the army. In the same way, golden and silver songkoks only fit for authorities.

Mr. Haja's songkoks cross the borders of Penang and are sold in Kuala Lumpur and Malaka. The store also has clients in Singapore and other Muslim countries.

Today the art of making songkoks is something endangered. Most hats are produced by factories at much more affordable prices, making Mr. Haja's trade less and less attractive to many consumers. However, the calm and serene craftsmen still resist in the streets of Penang. The art of surviving time is for few, but in the streets of Penang it is still possible.

(Penang, Malaysia, 2018)