Hong Kong, China
Our adventure begins on a hot, humid & rainy Saturday afternoon in the narrow lanes of Wan Chai, after a lunch of Dim Sums at the Islamic Centre of Hong Kong Canteen, and followed another few plates of Lamb curry & Roast Goose among the crowded aisles of the Wan Chai Wet market at Wan Kee Restaurant; we finally made our way to the tram stop.
Hong Kong Island's trams or referred to as "Ding-Dings" due to the sound they make, are one of the few relics which remain of the British colonial rule over Hong Kong. Streching almost the entire length of Hong Kong Island, running parallel to Victoria Harbour ( Kennedy Town - Shau Kei Wan) almost 30 kms long! Sitting on the top deck of a ding-ding is the best way to see the chaotic crowds navigating through the many luxury stores that line the main Street.
Before going to Shau Kai Wan, we stopped at Mount Parker View tram stop, to see another, rather infamous reality of Hong Kong real estate : Yick Cheong Building. This massive apartment complex houses over 10,000 people, living in 50 sqft< apartment...some even living in literal cages! This is the reality of Hong Kong often hidden (sometimes purposely) from the world which tourists hardly talk about.
From Shau Kei Wan Bus Station, we hopped on Bus No. 9 towards Shek O Village to reach the start of the Dragon's Back Trail.
🥾 Trail Info — skip ahead if you just want the story:
a) Get down at Tai Tam Gap ( Bus Stop: Cape Collinsion) . You will see a board: Shek O Country Park. To reach the trail head,climb the stairs and keep following the path, till you reach a diversion. There will be a public toilet to your right. Take the path to the right to start the trail.
b) Keep riding the bus to To Tei Wan bus stop. The trail is clearly visible on the left beside the public toilet.
💡Tip 1: Officially, according to the ACFD maps the Dragon's Back Trails starts from here. But I recommend to start the trail at Tai Tam Gap as the initial stage (30 min) untill the steep rocky climb begins, the path is very easy to walk & to also conserve energy for the steep climbs ahead.
💡Tip 2: All trails in Hong Kong, have numbered 'Distance Posts' boards fixed beside the trail path. Just look it up on the trail map if you want to know your exact location and progress.
We chose to start from Tai Tem Gap around 4pm HKT, a decision we did not regret. Apart from the easy path, it offered amazing views over Tai Tam Bay of the Red Hills (aka the posh area) and higher up (on a clear day) a glimpse of Stanley village, beach and the infamous Stanley Prison, built by the British and later used an infamous Japanese interment camp known for it's overcrowding, starvation & torture, where 2,800 Chinese, British & Dutch civilians were held for 44 long months. Scernic
After passing the waterfall, the real challenging part of the trail began- A 500m uphill path of boulders, upto the summit of Shek O Peak (254m). But all the toil is worth it as the 360 degree view of the peninsula are breath-taking. To the West, you can see the eastern entrance of the Victoria Bay, To the North-the island of Tung Lung Chau and right below the villages of Big Wave Bay & Shek O. The entire trail runs along the ridge of the various peaks of different heights, this up-down of the trail is where it gets it's name like a Chinese Dragon's Back!
Along the various ups and downs on the Chinese Dragon's Back, we witnessed many more scenic sites made by the surrounding green hills, even though the weather had turned gloomy and a bit windy, the spirits very always high!
Before starting the trail, like us fill up your bag with plenty of 7-11 snacks like Soft Mochi buns, curry fish balls and many cold bottles of HK's famous milk tea....it will come in handy as there are many benches which offer an amazing opportunity to enjoy local snacks & drinks along with the view!
Several bottles of cold milk tea later, with rain clouds approaching, we finally began our descent toward To Tei Wan. Seeing the steep stone steps ahead, we realised our earlier decision — to start at Tai Tam Gap and save our energy — had paid off. Had we tackled the trail the harder way round, we wouldn't have had the energy left for these final steep, rocky ups and downs, and we'd have been racing against both daylight and the weather.
Finally, at 6:30pm HKT, we safely reached the bottom. We'd originally planned to head down to Shek O village for a beach barbecue and a dip in the sea, but a storm alert changed our plans — we boarded Bus No. 9 back to Shau Kei Wan just as the winds picked up and the rain began to fall heavily.
And just like that — the Dragon's Back delivered! History, contrast, sore legs, snack breaks, and a last-minute sprint against the rain — this trail packs in everything that makes Hong Kong so unforgettable. If you only hike one trail in Hong Kong, make it this one. Just remember: pack the raincoat, bring your appetite, and let the ridge do the rest! 🐉🥾
