Howdy.
My name is Adil. I have an unusual interest: I LOVE TO EXPLORE EVERYTHING & ANYTHING SOVIET. Fueled by this unusual desire during my research, I came across this unknown sleepy town deep in the Autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan called MOYNAQ. At first it just seems like many of those little dots on the map in the middle of nowhere but the deeper i dove...I realized i stumbled across something very interesting and tragic...
Well, this town called MOYNAQ happens to sit along the shore of the Aral Sea (actually it is a lake by definition) formerly the 3rd largest lake is the site of one of the worst man-made disasters in history. For more information read: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aral_Sea
MOYNAQ for a town situated in the middle of nowhere is surprisingly modern and bustling. It has wide, paved roads, hotels, restaurants, bazars, masjid, hospitals etc all urban facilities.
After driving through the entire length of town, on the outskirts, we reach the old shoreline of the Aral sea. The area consists of a small cafe, the old lighthouse and a small museum. Beside the museum, a monument dedicated to the legacy of the Aral Sea as been erected. It also comes with a small board with the maps of the Aral Sea through the decades (1960-2016). Do check out the museum it only costs a $1.
Adjacent to the museum are a series of steps that lead directly into the lake bed (now dried up). Infront of the steps is a gazebo type sitting area from which you enjoy the view of the shore chilling with a cold drink, tea or samsas from the nearby cafe.
After visiting the museum, I finally got the to exciting part..... the fishing boats anchored at the shore, left rusting and abandoned since the collapse of the USSR when the sea dried up.
It may be a cool, off-the-beaten path attraction but the story of the Aral Sea and of the people dependent on it is a tragic one. Due Nikita Khrushchev's policies of increasing the agricultural output of the Soviet Union, it was decided to use the vast empty flat stepps of the Kazak SSR & Ozbek SSR for agriculture especially for producing cotton. Due to cotton being a highly water intensive crop, millions of litres of water from the Aral sea was diverted into the Amy Darya & Sry Darya rivers to the Fergana Valley sustain the cotton plantations. Thus, eventually the Soviets used up all the water and here we have today nothing but a desert. All the ecosystem around the lake of different flora & fauna also eventually disappeared.
After soaking in the majestic sights & the tragic story of the former Aral sea, I decided to end our little Soviet adventure to with a traditional Ozbek & Karakalpak lunch of Lepeshka (Ozbek bread) and Shashlik at a place called 'Cafe Moynaq' (highly recommended)
Well, as i am writing this blog and reliving my journey to Moynaq, the long ride back along the bumpy roads reminds me this quote said by Ibn Battuta: "Traveling—it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller".
Isn't it?
Untill next time; Happy Travels----Adil
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