After one of the best sleeps we have had on the trip (amazing what a difference a comfy bed, great linens, quiet surroundings and an open screened window makes!) we woke to happy birds and sunshine. We moseyed on the little path to the pretty dining room and had the place to ourselves.
Leisurely is the best way I can describe the morning, with cappuccinos and a healthy breakfast (no bacon in sight). Our only activity for the day was a walking tour of Colonia led by the local historical society. Our tour left from the scenic church and square, and we were joined by 4 others (2 American/2 Canadian), all over from Buenos Aires for the day. It is a quick 1-hour boat ride between the two cities, although the pre-board time is also an hour due to passport control. (You can also sail to Montevideo to/from BA which is a 2.5 hour boat ride).
Our guide took us through the small streets we had wandered through last night, but now we had context and the history along with the visuals. Uruguay was occupied by both Portugal and Spain at various times starting in 1680, and both of those influences are apparent in the old buildings. Portuguese more linear, with Spanish being more curvy.
Unfortunately, due to the continuous tensions through 1828, much of the old town was destroyed. The “old” walls were rebuilt in 1971 to replicate what they would have looked like back in the 1700’s. There are a few streets that still have the original structures and those, as well as the reconstruction, are all now protected.
Our guide recommended a small takeout window for lunch, which we would have just wandered past on our own. Farolitos specialty is Chivito the national dish of Uruguay. Aka heart attack on a plate. It is a bun, roast beef, ham, tomato, mozzarella, mayo and sometimes bacon/and or a fried egg. Did not sound appetizing to me at all, but we had to give it a go. We ordered one and had them split in half. It wasn’t quite as dense or massive as we expected, and I had a few bites and Ken finished it up. Would I order it again? Probably not, but it was actually quite tasty.
From there we headed back to our hotel, and relaxed/read/wandered the grounds the rest of the day. Before dinner, we enjoyed a nice glass of local sparkling wine in the beautiful yard overlooking the property (you can see Buenos Aires in the distance). Dinner was in the dining room with some great local wines and nice jazzy music playing in the background. Life is good.
The next day was again pretty light on activities, but we did a quick 5 min drive to the massive bull fighting ring, Plaza de Toros. It was built in 1909 and hosted only 8 bullfights before the "sport" outlawed in 1912. Oops. Originally it also included a horse track and hotel, and only the track was operational for many years. The hotel was torn down and the stadium fell into disrepair but was restored in 2019 as a venue for concerts and other events.
For dinner we ventured to the cool Caliu Earthship hotel and restaurant (https://caliu.com.uy/). It was recommended by several and Ken was quite apprehensive, but forged ahead. Caliu was only a couple of miles from our hotel, and we pulled up to the low key looking building that had both the check in for the hotel and the restaurant.
We were a bit early for their 8p opening time, surprise surprise. But Mauro the Manager greeted us like old friends and showed us to a table with a warning they were still setting up for dinner. No problem, we enjoyed a beverage and took a wander around the beautiful grounds. The structures were constructed in 2019 and focus on sustainability and conservation. Nature was apparent in every direction and it was all very peaceful.
Dinner was amazing with Mauro’s wife Jessica in the kitchen and he taking care of the guests. Complimentary homemade bread and hummus started the meal, and my mushroom risotto was one of the best dishes I have had in a very long time. Ken had a lamb dish and kept making yum noises. Definitely a highlight of the trip!
The next morning, it was time to pack up and return to the busy Montevideo. The drive was uneventful and soon we were back in the small apartment. After three days of peaceful surroundings it was a bit hard be happy with the zooming traffic outside.
Next week…back to the beach, La Barra and Christmas!
