It was a long and bumpy journey from South Georgia to the Antarctic peninsula. We were thwarted a couple of times by pack ice which we couldn’t get through as the Fram isn’t an Icebreaker class vessel. We attempted to get to South Orkney to drop off a Paramedic but couldn’t get close. Eventually about 24 hours behind schedule we made land on ann island of the South Shetlands.
Two and a half action packed days ensued, visiting the islands and the actual continent.
It was stunningly beautiful. So remote and pristine. The shapes and colours of the icebergs, many different hues of white and ice blue. The more compact the ice , the more blue it appears.
A zodiac ride back to the ship brings me to tears as we weave our way through multiple icebergs.
Steep hikes up from beaches are rewarded by yet more stunning views.
We start our morning at 7.30 in the tender pit of the ship getting kitted up to go Kayaking. As we paddle around the bay we are rewarded by the ice, whales, penguins and the contrast of the black rock and white ice.
The day continues with two landings, hikes, penguin colonies, a scenic cruise between islands and multiple whale sightings, some extremely close to the ship.
The weather is incredible, so still and clear, unusual on this trip. I opted to sleep out on the ice and conditions couldn’t be better. Those of us in bivvy bags need to dig holes to protect ourselves from the wind but it remains still and so quiet that we can regularly hear the ice calving from the mountains around. A humpback spends hours leisurely swimming around the bay and blowing, adding to the intense soundscape. The ship disappears round the corner for the night leaving is to the solitude of the expanse.
I don’t sleep much , but then you don’t spend a night on the ice in order to sleep. It doesn’t get dark and the colours of the sky change throughout the night.
And all too soon we have to leave this precious land. Steaming out of the enclosed sanctuary of Paradise bay we have a couple of glorious hours with calm water and humpbacks. A group of three even start creating bubble nets in order to fish, a rare sight even for the crew. We are transfixed for ages until the swell hits us and we start our crossing of the Drakes Passage.
Usually it is known as Drakes lake or Drakes shake but with a swell of 4-6 metres we wallow for 48hours back to Chile. I feel incredibly sleepy in rough seas so the day is spent napping and eating with the odd excursion out on deck where the temperature is definitely warmer as we have recrossed the convergence of warm and cold waters.
Entering the Beagle Channel we sail past glaciers and ever changing weather.
Three weeks at sea has been a long time, ups and downs as would be expected on a long expedition. But it feels complete. Time to head home.